[The Gourmand Next Door] Champagne, Anyone? Picking the Right One for Valentine's Day

As Valentine’s Day approaches, you might be tempted to purchase a bottle of Champagne.  But what to buy? Here’s the skinny on what it is and where to buy in South Durham.  

What is Champagne?  There are laws in France - like, a lot of laws - that regulate what is allowed to be called Champagne. It is a sparkling wine made in méthode traditionelle from the region of Champagne, about 90 miles east and north of Paris, from specific grape varieties.  That’s the broadest definition.  There are seven styles of Champagne from dry to sweet, but we’ll stick to the dry (Brut) expression.  

Champagne: What to Buy and Why

• Looking to impress?  Buy a bottle of Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV. Blanc de Blanc is made of 100% Chardonnay. Golden hued with tinges of green, it is tight and focused on the nose with apricot and floral notes. The flavor profile is ripe pear with notes of chalk and white flower. You could pair this with delicate pastries like meringues and fruit-focused desserts. The firm has committed to the utmost care in their vineyards, converting 10 hectares in 2021 to organics and has achieved the highest environmental certification with respect to its farming practices in 2025. Source at Total Wine in Patterson Place for $120. 

• For a great all around Champagne, buy Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut NV.  This is a blend of Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay, and is a deeper yellow with vibrant fizz. A bountiful nose of honey and vanilla will greet you. It is a bit heavier on the palate with denser fruit flavor rounding the mouth and more subtle notes of floral. This wine will drink well with most poultry dishes and cream-based pasta dishes. Perrier-Jouët is transitioning to biodynamic, organic farming with an estimated completion of the project by 2030. Source at Target for $58.

• For a Champagne that won’t break the bank, try Grongnet Blanc de Blancs NV. Also a 100% Chardonnay, it is a pale-yellow wine with tinges of green amongst the small bubbles. The white flowers and chalk are present on the nose, and it is bracing with noticeable bright acid among the tang of green apples and toast. It will be great to serve with appetizers. Source at Wine Authorities in Rockwood Center for $40.

• Now for something completely different. A sparkling wine produced by Jo Landron “Atmosphères” NV from La Haye-Foassière in Loire-Atlantique, about 260 miles west and south of Champagne. The wine is a blend of Folle Blanche, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay, and has a pale-yellow appearance with fine bubbles. The aroma of Anjou pear and white flowers predominates the nose. It is light with flavors of pear and brioche. This will pair remarkably with spicy foods, as the bracing acid will cut through those spices. Biodynamic since 2008 and at the forefront of the “naturalist” wine movement. Source at Hope Valley Bottle Shop or Beer Study for about $27.

Your Sparkling Delight: How to Serve

Serve the wine at 50 degrees Fahrenheit, fridge for 30 minutes, and then set out for 10 minutes before pouring. Pour into a stemmed wine glass.

This is but a simple exercise in a vast array of Champagne and sparkling wine, and there is much to discover. As a reminder, these are all wines that I have sampled and enjoyed, but my tastes have been developed over a couple of decades in food and beverage. If you want personal recommendations, the staff at the wine shops will steer you well. Cheers to a happy holiday and great wine!

Preston Wilson is a metric system enthusiast and professionally trained chef and sommelier.